schiaparelli haute couture S/S 2024 Analysis
the ask
Conduct a scholarly analysis of a collection from a specific designer or brand.
critical analysis
applied theory
key skills
scholarly research
visual analysis
designer understanding
contextual thinking
the process
-
In selecting my collection, I knew I wanted to do Schiaparelli Haute Couture S/S 2024. I have always been drawn to Schiaparelli. Within my research, I ensured that it met the requirements for visual documentation and sourcing. This process includes executing preliminary research using fashion databases, articles, and design history. Also, I am finding the inspirations behind the collection and its context.
-
Using my findings from the show and Daniel Roseberry’s history, I developed the collection's central theme and crafted an abstract summarizing this concept.
-
Within my paper, I analyzed key garments and the key themes to properly embellish my writing with learned fashion vernacular and APA formatting. The show interprets symbolic elements that represent a bold and innovative exploration of fashion as an artistic medium. Roseberry asserted that the work honors the investigation of paradoxes, integrating Elsa's personal allusions with his abstract Western influences and background.
-
In finishing this paper's layout and context, I organized the referenced images by figure and cited my primary resources, including the fashion show video and credible fashion publications used. This approach aligned with the assignment’s requirement for visual analysis and scholarly interpretation.
abstract
“This collection is an homage to that obsession, as well as a study in contradictions — of legacy and the avant-garde, of the beautiful and the provocative, of the earthbound and the heaven-sent.” Daniel Roseberry
(Roseberry, 2024)
setting
The Spring/Summer 2024 Haute Couture show by Schiaparelli took place at the Petite Palais in Paris, France. The music featured tracks from the soundtracks of “Top Gun,” “Alien,” and “Oppenheimer” (Diderich, 2024). Daniel Roseberry's collection draws inspiration from the brand's legacy and the allure of outer space. It represents a bold and innovative exploration of fashion as an artistic medium. Roseberry asserted that the work honors the investigation of paradoxes, integrating Elsa's personal allusions with his abstract Western influences and background. Roseberry combines historical references with contemporary silhouettes, facilitating a dialogue between the past and the present. The collection showcases a remarkable selection of apparel that challenges conventional notions of beauty and functionality, emphasizing artistry and innovative materials.
inspiration
The primary objective of the S/S 2024 collection is to celebrate the duality of strength and vulnerability, a theme seen in the careful selection of materials and silhouettes. Key themes include Surrealism, feminism, science fiction, Western symbolism, and the interplay of light and shadow. Roseberry's use of vibrant colors, sculptural forms, and intricate craftsmanship displays a commitment to pushing the boundaries of haute couture. The silhouettes display variety, including both rigid architectural shapes and flowing, draped designs. This collection demonstrates the modern woman's versatility while honoring the brand's heritage. Materials are essential, especially luxurious materials such as silk, taffeta, and innovative textiles that convey movement and depth. The collection extensively showcases historical ties, including references to the surrealist art movement, which Schiaparelli notably included throughout her designs. Roseberry's collection aimed to pay tribute to Elsa Schiaparelli while concurrently exploring the dichotomies between tradition and the avant-garde. Roseberry adeptly combines classic influences with contemporary design elements to create a collection that is both timeless and innovative.
key looks
-
Figure 1 depicts an asymmetrical, basic evening-length dress distinguished by an unstructured collar and a deep U-neckline, enhanced by a back slit. One sleeve features a relaxed short sleeve, while the other showcases a structural butterfly sleeve that ascends just above the model's head, with the exaggerated sleeve design referencing the 1980s. The gown is embellished with silver sequins, Swarovski crystals, rhinestones, and tassels to produce a "vibrating" effect. This connects the Swarovski crystals to celestial bodies and the dress's sculptural form to the Milky Way. A complementary sphere ring with retro-inspired Swarovski crystal pavé complements the ensemble, alongside black leather cowboy-style mules embellished with a gold metal toe cap and unique “S”-shaped heels. Figure 1 displays a remarkable silhouette and demonstrates exaggerated proportions similar to a sculptural work of art.
-
Figure 2 is a mid-calf dress that cinches at the waist with a trued waistline. The garment features a pronounced, U-shaped neckline and a drop-shoulder design. The elevated, inverted, butterfly-inspired bodice, extending above the model's head, features an exaggerated shoulder reminiscent of the 1980s. Circular cutouts at the head level mimic armholes, accompanied by embroidery inspired by Italian ceilings. The skirt features a draped hem and incorporates side seam pockets. Figure 2 presents a butter-satin bodice adorned with needlework that incorporates the Maison's motifs in rhinestones, gold lurex thread, and tonal sequins, complemented by a contrasting black lining. The skirt is also crafted from coordinating butter-duchesse silk satin. Figure 2 is adorned with a Swarovski crystal choker necklace and earrings that showcase the Maison's distinctive keyhole design. Completed with black leather cowboy-style mules adorned with a gold metal toe cap and distinctive “S”-shaped heels.
-
Figure 3 illustrates a bi-material jacket composed of denim and white leather, featuring prominently rounded shoulders. The garment features an exaggerated jewel neckline, an asymmetrical front fastening, and a long, fitting sleeve. The jacket features an exaggerated futuristic peplum element on one side and a print resembling pattern paper or a princess seam. The box-style jacket features a hand-painted corset motif on the front, enhanced by tonal synthetic thread embroidery that mimics faux horse braids arranged in a geometric pattern. The trousers feature a banded waist and are designed in a capri length. The white denim trousers are completely embellished with stitched false horse braids in matching synthetic threads. Furthermore, Figure 3 is complemented by retro-inspired Swarovski crystal and baguette earrings, along with cowboy-style mules made of black leather, featuring a gold metal toe cap and unique “S”-shaped heels.
key takeaways
Daniel Roseberry's Spring/Summer 2024 Haute Couture collection for Schiaparelli masterfully merges the brand's rich history with a captivating interpretation of the cosmos. Utilizing Elsa Schiaparelli's obsession with astrology, Roseberry creates a story that connects the past and the future, honoring both the wonders of outer space and the appeal of human creativity. The collection combines Surrealism, sci-fi aesthetics, and Western elements, honoring classic haute couture while embracing the avant-garde essence of modern fashion. Roseberry defies norms through inventive silhouettes and striking materials, demonstrating how seemingly contradictory elements can coexist together to create remarkable artistry. This collection exemplifies the limitless possibilities that emerge, encouraging exploration of the unknown's beauty while honoring the legends that preceded us.
the outcome
This project deepened my understanding of fashion as a form of communication rather than just visual design. Through analyzing a collection, I developed the ability to think critically about garments by examining elements such as silhouette, material, and color and understanding how they contribute to an overall concept. I also strengthened my research and analytical skills by using credible sources to support a clear argument. Additionally, this project increased my awareness of the cultural and historical contexts that influence fashion, as well as how designers communicate brand identity and creative direction through their work. Overall, I gained a stronger ability to connect abstract ideas and inspiration to the final execution of a cohesive collection.